Five Ways to Identify Meteorites from Home

If you’ve kept up with the news at all recently, you may have heard about the recent meteorite fall in Michigan. But did you know that there is actually a community of individuals that go hunting for meteorites? If you’ve ever wanted to own your very own rock from outer-space, or if you just want to hop in your car and drive out to experience the thrill of a real-life treasure hunt, then there are a few defining features you’ll want to try and look for to determine whether or not what you find is a “meteor-right,” or a “meteor-wrong.” 

1. The Magnet Test

The majority of meteorites in our solar system are comprised of extraterrestrial nickel and iron. As a result, most meteorites will easily attract a magnet. Rare earth magnets or a good neodymium magnet are going to be your best bet. But keep in mind that just because your rock sticks to a magnet doesn’t mean it’s from outer-space. Hematite, magnetite, and slag are among the most common meteor-wrongs presented to University professors and experts for identification. 

2. The Streak Test

This is a simple test that you can do from home to help rule out possible meteor-wrongs such as hematite, magnetite, or that dreaded slag. All you need is a piece of ceramic tile. If you don’t have any lying around, you can grab a piece at your local Home Depot or Lowes. All you do is bare down on the rough, unglazed side of the tile with your suspect rock, and scrape it across the surface a few times. Now look at the color streak that it made. If the streak is gray or black, then it is likely magnetite. If the streak is a reddish-brown color, then you’ve got hematite. Meteorites will leave a brown streak. If there isn’t a streak, then it’s likely that you got slagged!

3. Fusion Crust and Flow-Lines

Meteorites often get heated up to around 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit upon entry into Earth’s atmosphere. As a result, they develop a thin, black fusion crust on them. Sometimes you may even see tiny little bubbles that have developed in the crust, along with flow-lines where the rock became oriented in flight, and material burned off of it at high speeds (imagine suddenly blowing a puddle of ink on a piece of paper and what that looks like). Examine your rock. If it hit the ground or another dense object hard enough, it may have lost a piece or broken apart. If it has a light grayish interior and a thin black crust on the outside, then there is a very good chance that you may have found a meteorite. 

4. Regmaglypts

Regmaglypts are basically Nature’s thumbprints. These small depressions often form on the surface of a meteor as it burns up in the atmosphere, and little pockets get scooped out of the surface by the combination of air pressure/resistance and heat. This process is similar to the way a sculptor will carve out small scoops while creating a sculpture from clay. 

5. Chondrules and Metal Flakes

As mentioned earlier, meteorites usually contain lots of metal, so in addition to taking note of how heavy your rock is, you’ll also want to consider using a metal file to create a small “window” in a corner or other spot, which will allow you to look at your rock’s insides, also commonly referred to as its matrix. If you see small reflective flecks of metal, then that’s a good sign! If you see porous bubbles, that is a bad sign. If, however, you see …

Why You Want Your Hardwood Floors Installed by a Professional

A properly installed and well-cared for hardwood floor can transform any room in your home or office. Wood floors can be just the touch whatever décor look you are going for from elegant to classy to rustic. To make sure they last for decades or even centuries, proper installation and care are essential. Hardwood floors are easier to clean and tend to last many years longer than carpet or linoleum. Hiring a company that specializes in wood floor installation is the best way to ensure that you receive the quality materials, skilled workmanship and the long-term use you want from your hardwood floors. click here for related information.

High Quality Material

Much like other types of flooring, the quality of wood you have installed is important to the overall look and feel of your floors. High quality wood has a softness and sheen to it, indicating that it is strong and somewhat pliable. Wood of a lesser quality may not cost as much, but it is also more likely to splinter, fade quickly and warp when confronted with water or other liquids. Reputable installation companies only work with high quality materials. They can also help you decide what type of wood is most appropriate for your home, depending on your area’s climate and geological conditions. Best of all, they’ll be equipped to handle any type of situation or preference no matter what size, width or thickness you want your floors to be.

High Quality Installation

There are three main types of hardwood floor installation: floating installation, nail-down installation and glue-down installation. Each installation method has its own pros and cons. A professional technician will be able to help you correctly assess your needs and the appropriateness of each type of installation for your home. Most importantly, moisture testing will also be done to guarantee that your installation goes smoothly, whether you want to use engineered word strips, solid wood strips or parquet. While the process can be a bit untidy, a professional installation service will be able to install your floors with care, expertise and respect for your home. for further details, visit :

Hardwood Floors Installed by a Professional

Long-term Use

Hardwood floors are definitely a long-term investment. In fact, it’s not uncommon for hardwood floors to last for decades and even longer if well cared for. If you are weighing the costs and benefits of this type of flooring, this is definitely something you want to keep in mind. Proper floor installation is essential if you want to get the most use out of your floors. Furthermore, professionals understand the importance of correctly securing planks, floor floats, and nails to create the type of smooth, sturdy and secure wood floor that stands the test of time. Remember, your floors are something you use every single day. If you want them to look, feel and be their best, no one is better suited to the task than a professional installer is.

There are many projects around the home that fit the bill of a do-it-yourself project. However, hardwood floor installation is not one of them. Your floors are simply too important to put them in the hands of anyone other than a top-notch professional. Once you see your beautiful new hardwood floors, you’ll definitely agree.


The Most Common Problems Faced- DIY Floor Sanding

Everybody likes to save a little money wherever they can pitch in to reduce labor costs when it comes to home renovation work. For the average home handyman there is a lot more involved than they are generally aware of when attempting the sanding and polishing of the timber floors in their home.

There are a number of contributing factors which can lead to an unsatisfactory or poor quality finish, which, in most cases, will only be revealed once the coating has been applied and the job completed. click here to find more.

Any imperfections in the process of sanding the floor will be highlighted by the applied coating, combined with reflected light. One of the most common sanding imperfections is ‘stop marks’ where the machine has been left stationary while engaging the floor, even for a fraction of a second, or has not been lifted while it is still in motion while engaging the floor. This is a very easy mistake to make for the unskilled operator. The level of damage this sanding imperfection can cause will depend on the depth of the ‘stop mark’, and in some cases it can be extreme. Tongue and groove timber flooring is generally 19 millimeters thick, although there are only four to five millimeters of timber above the actual tongue and groove itself – this is the amount of timber you can safely work with when attempting to level your floor. This sanding imperfection usually occurs when the operator concentrates on a particular isolated uneven area of the floor. for further information, visit :

The two best tips here are:

  • Make straight runs of the machine all the way to the wall, and all the way back without stopping.
  • Start with more coarse sandpaper to flatten the floor before moving to a finer grade paper.

Among other sanding imperfections that are common are ‘chatter marks’. These marks are seen in reflected light as a fine corrugation throughout the entire floor and are generally caused by machine vibration. This imperfection is more to do with the quality of the machinery that is available for hire. Industrial floor sanding machines used by professionals are not available for hire, and are precision built and balanced for optimum results. A way to minimize or eradicate chatter marks is to rotary sand the floor as your final sand using 100 grit and finally 150 grit paper. These 16 inch diameter rotary machines are readily available for hire and known as ‘Polyvacs‘.

The Most Common Problems Faced- DIY Floor Sanding

Although there are other sanding imperfections that are possible and can contribute to a poor finish, the sanding is only one component of the work.

Foreign material including atmospheric dust particles in top coats are also a very common problem for the D.I.Y. handyman. The meticulous cleaning down of the floor before coating and especially between coats must be carried out properly as floor polyurethane tends to mound around very fine dust particles accentuating them when viewed in reflected light after the coating has dried.

Final coat preparation tips:

  • Blow down any dust settled on ledges and skirting boards and let it settle before vacuuming.
  • Our final cleaning down method is the secret to a dust particle free top coat.
  • Method: Completely soak a large rag in warm water and wring out as much as possible to leave it slightly damp. Wrap the rag around a broom head and use it as a tack rag to collect the very fine particles the vacuum cleaner will not pick up. It will amaze people when they see the amount of very fine particles

Ceramic Tile Flooring – Remodeling Over Wood Subfloors

Before you can install a ceramic tile or stone floor, you need to know if the subfloor is even capable of supporting tile. Simply put, tiles can be a durable, low maintenance, beautiful floor choice…if it’s on a solid substrate. On the other hand,it can be an expensive mistake that cracks, breaks and requires multiple repairs that may never work if the subfloor is not prepared correctly. What factors do you need to look out for to decide if tile is right for your project, and what steps can be taken to insure a trouble free installation? for more related information, click here.

For tile to be successful, it needs rigid support, with very little tolerance for movement. The more rigid the substrate, the better chance the tile has of remaining crack free throughout its life. Most problems with tile floors over wood come from excessive ‘bounciness’ of the substrate. Carpet can handle some bending, vinyl tile can flex and bend a bit, hardwood floors can bend a little too, but if tile or stone is subjected to forces that push in 2 different directions at once, it doesn’t know how to bend. Instead, it cracks, first in the grout and then in the body of the tile. Consumers who have just paid thousands of dollars for a tile floor do not find these cracks appealing, to say the least. for further details, visit :

Ceramic Tile Flooring - Remodeling Over Wood Subfloors

Realistically, if all of this flooring is hidden by finished ceilings below and covered over by old flooring layers above, educated guessing takes center stage. The following questions help to determine floor stiffness using common sense guidelines:

  1. What floor covering was on the floor before? If it had ceramic tile or stone, and the floor received reasonable traffic for years with no cracking or broken grout, it’s a pretty good bet that the subfloor is up to the job. If it was vinyl, carpet or hardwood, we are still in the dark.
  2. Does the floor feel bouncy? If so, it is. Trust your instincts. It’s not ready for tile. A well-built subfloor feels very stiff underfoot. Squeaking can also be a bad sign, but it may also solvable by screwing down the planks or plywood better into the joists.
  3. How thick is the subfloor and what is it made of? In new construction, ¾ inch plywood or Oriented Strand Board is a standard subfloor over joists that are 16 inches on center apart. We find that is almost never enough to meet the deflection standards in most homes. Other times there is old plank flooring beneath a layer of plywood. This is a wild card, since the engineering tables usually don’t include the value for planks in their calculation, but common sense says it does add some stiffness.
  4. How tough is the tile to be installed? Fairly thick quarry tiles, for example, may be rated for heavy duty industrial applications, although they are often installed in homes. Because they are thicker than normal tiles and able to withstand heavy traffic, they may be less prone to cracking than a sensitive, thinner tile. For that matter, natural stone such as marble and granite are on the other end of the spectrum – they crack even easier than ceramic tile and should not be used in settings where any excess deflection is possible. Intuition may tell you they are stronger than ceramic, but in fact they are more brittle and prone to cracking. They need twice as rigid a floor as ceramic.
  5. What condition does the wood appear to be in? Even if the amount

A Few Tips When Fitting Wooden Flooring

Laminate and wooden flooring looks great in almost any room. If you are considering fitting the wooden flooring yourself then there are a few tips that may help you to fit it easier and may add a more professional finish to it. With some hard work, patience and the right flooring tools it may not be as difficult to achieve a good finish as you imagine.

Before laying the laminate or wooden flooring, ensure that your under floor is in good condition and is as flat and bounce-free as possible. Uneven areas should try to be repaired. The flatter the surface the better the wooden flooring will look. Ideally you will want the new wooden flooring to run lengthways along your room as this looks better than width ways.However, if your existing floorboards also run lengthways it is a bad idea to fit then directly together as this can lead to joint separation and unevenness. If this is the case then fit plywood over the entire floor surface so that you have a flat surface to then work on. click here to know more about flooring

Once your existing floor is ready lay an insulating membrane across the entire flooring area. This keeps heat in the room and dampens noise when the wooden flooring is walked upon and is highly recommended. Once this has been laid you are ready to lay your new wooden flooring panels. The easiest way is to work from farthest wall from the door inwards as this is the most seen part of the room. If possible remove skirting boards and door architraves so that you can work from the wall. If this isn’t possible then beading can be fixed to these areas afterward to give a tidy finish. for more details, visit :

When laying the flooring panels always stagger joints by using random lengthen flooring pieces as this will add to the strength of the flooring and the aesthetics. Ensure that all pieces are firmly locked together before re-applying skirting and architraves or adding beading. Flooring can contract and retract based on the heat of the room and moisture levels so do not fix skirting or beading to the floor. Fix skirting to the wall and fix beading to the skirting.

A Few Tips When Fitting Wooden Flooring

The best way to lay it is from the wall furthest away from the main entrance to the room as this will be seen the most by people entering. If you can, remove all of the skirting boards and architrave in the room so that the wooden flooring can go right to the wall and then replace these afterwards. That wasn’t possible in my house as I didn’t really have time to remove them and the walls were quite uneven as it was an old house so I just worked up to the skirting boards and then fixed wooden beading around the edge and it still looked really good.

When you lay it, always stagger the panels as this not only looks good and replicates the floor boards on a real wood floor but it also adds strength to the surface. Make sure that all of the pieces are securely joined together – you can buy a special took and plastic mallet for knocking the panels into place without damaging any joins or edges. Leave a gap of a few millimeters between the floor and wool as per the manufacturer instructions – this is because the flooring can shrink and grow depending on the room temperature. For this reason, finishing beading should never be fitted to the wooden flooring,but to the …